Trekking in Nepal |
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Peak Climbing in Nepal |
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Camping Treks in Nepal |
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Rafting in Nepal |
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Wildlife Safari Nepal |
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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL |
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| PISANG PEAK
(6,119m/20,070ft.) |
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Area: Manang Valley in the Annapurna Area
Pisang Peak seen from the Masyangdi Valley. Pisang Peak rises above from Pisang village and yak pastures in a uniform slope of ice and snow to the final summit pyramid. Pisang peak is considered one of the easy climbing peaks among the trekking peaks in Nepal. To reach the base camp from Pisang village, the path ascends through sparse wood and pasture to a Kharka at 4,380 meters (14,366ft) which is considered the best place for setting up the base camp. High Camp is set up at 5,400 meters (17,715ft) climbing to a shoulder on the South-West Ridge. There will be snow at the high camp from the end of November to the end of March. The well defined ridge leads to the final snow slop which is quite steep but not difficult to reach the summit. Descent is made on the same route
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Pisang Peak |
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CHULU WEST (6,419m/21,054ft)
CHULU EAST (6,584m/21,596ft) |
| Area: Manang Himal in the Annapurna Area.
These peaks are part of the Manang Himal, which are quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. To the west its limit is the Kali Gandaki and to the north the Parchekya La (5,447m/17870ft).
There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking map is highly misleading.
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Chulu East
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The highest of these peaks, marked Chulu West (6419m/21,054ft) on the trekking maps, has a recorded altitude from at least two expeditions of nearer 6400m (20,997ft); this might more accurately be called Chulu Central. The NMA gives this an official altitude of 6,429m (21,060ft).
Many climbers are confused as to the exact location of these two peaks as the range has 4 or more summits in the immediate vicinity which are unmarked in maps of this area. As a result many climbing parties have mistakenly climbed one of these peaks thinking it to be Chulu East or West. It usually understood that with the permit to climb the East or West peak an attempt can be made to the nearby peak as well.
A climb of one or both of these peaks combined with Nepal's most famous Arround the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings. Allow about 25 to 30 days to complete this climb and trek.
Chulu West:
The obvious approach to this peak diverges from the main trail to the Thorung La pass past the village of Manang and Base Camp is established in a small valley to the North. From base camp the route follows a subsidery North-West ridge that leads up to the main peak. An attempt to the peak and return has be done in a single day as setting camp up on the slope above base camp is not easy. An attempt of Chulu Central peak (6,429m/21,060ft) just east of Chulu West.
Chulu East:
The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moranis at 5334m (17500ft). Most climbers make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although some have, in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below the peak. Another subsidery peak called Chulu Far East (6059m) 19880ft) may also be attempted from this approach. |
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| PARCHAMO PEAK (6,187m/20,293ft.) |
Area: Tesi Lapcha Pass in the Rolwaling Himal.
Parchamo from the Tesi Lapcha Pass. The peak, which lies due south of the Tesi Lapcha, is unnamed on the Schneider Rolwaling Himal map, but is given a spot height of 6,273 metres (20,581ft). The Mandala Lamasangu to Everest map calls the peak Parchoma, which is quite possibly a spelling mistake. Both Shipton's and Gregory's expedition surveys gave the peak an altitude close to 6,318 metres (20,700ft).
Seen from the pass the mountain is an attractive but straightforward snow peak with a well defined north by north west ridge rising from the relatively flat, crevassed glacier astride the Tesi Lapcha. To the west of the ridge the face forms a uniform snow slope broken by crevasses and small seracs rising from the rocky lower buttresses above the Drolambau Glacier.
Parchamo peak has become a derigueur climb for trekkers crossing the high Tasi Lapcha (5,755m/18,875ft) to Namche Bazaar in the Everest area. The peak can be combined with the more demanding Ramdung Go peak combined with the trek over the Tesi Lapcha in about 25 days or so.
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Parchamo Peak
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