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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL
 
THARPU CHULI - Tent Peak (5,663m/18,575ft.)


Area: Annapurna Sanctuary in the Annapurna Himal

Climbers on the approach to Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak). Locally known as Tarphu Chuli, Tent Peak is situated in the heart of Annapurna Sanctuary and is among the few snow-clad summits at this height range in Nepal. This peak offers an ideal opportunity for those who want to summit a Himalayan peak, but who may otherwise be hesitant to try a higher peak as a Himalayan debut. Besides providing an interesting climb combining glacier travel, face climbing and tip-toeing on knife ridges, a climb on this mountain offers an unparalleled view of the entire Annapurna Sanctuary a breathtaking circle of hanging glaciers and moraines surrounded by some of the highest peaks on earth. The normal route follows the North-West Ridge to the summit although the mountain has been climbed via the South-East Ridge as well as South-West Face.


MERA PEAK (6,654m/21,825ft.)

Area: Hinku Valley in the Everest Area

On the summit ridge of Mera PeakMera peak is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides the charm of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides. There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The routes crossing Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) and the Mingbo La (5,871m) provide some the most adventurous trekking with spectacular scenery through remote glaciated valleys and passes.


Climbers on the Mera Peak summit North Face Glacier from the Mera La.
The base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.

KUSUM KANGURU (6,367m/20,883ft.)

Area: Hinku Valley in the Everest Area

Kusum Kangaru looking East from across the Dudh Kosi valley.Regarded as technically very challenging on all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name originating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.

South-East Ridge
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.

North Ridge
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and scree and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.



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