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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL
 
LOBUJE EAST PEAK (6,119m/20,070ft.)

Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area

There are two distinct summits to Lobuje Peak - Lobuje East (6,119m/20,070ft) and Lobuje West (6,145m/20,161ft). Although they are connected by a continuous ridge there is a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them. On the Ice slopes of Lobuche East Peak.Lobuje is an attractive summit, offering a variety of existing routes and a wide scope for new lines. Seen from near Pheriche, the dark triangle of its rocky East Face rises above the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to an icy skyline. This skyline forms the South Ridge, the junction of the East Face with the glaciated South-West Face and the line of the normal route of ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge running north-west from the top of East Face through several small summits to the East Peak.

The 1300 year old Jokhang Temple
Lobuje Peak
Lobuje East: The true East Peak is quite striking and is reached by descending into marked notch and climbing steep snow/ice slopes to the top. This is rarely climbed and is often mistaken for Lobuje West. Most attempts on the mountain climb the summit ridge only as far as subsidiary snow summit, before the notch, south-east of the true peak. The false summits east of the notch have been attained by numerous parties, but the first recorded ascent of the true Lobuje East seems to have been made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on 25th April 1984.

KONGMA TSE (5,849m/19,185ft.)

Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area

Kongma Tse Peak as seen from Gorakshep. Formerly called Mehra Peak or simply Mehra, this attractive mountain rises to the north of the Kongma La above the Khumbu glacier opposite Lobuje, and is one of several small summits, including Pokalde, that make up the long South-West Ridge of Nuptse, between the Khumbu and Nuptse Glaciers. Seen from Gorak Shep, the summit has a diamond shaped hanging glacier above a steeply inclined rock wall that makes up the mountain's North Face, which is in turn slashed by a diagonal ice ramp leading to the lower edge of the glacier.

From the south the mountain is much more approachable. Seen from the lakes east of the Kongma La, a small, stepped glacier descends from the summit between long, rocky arms that make up the mountain's South and South-East Ridges. The margins of the glacier provide the normal route of ascent.

The 1300 year old Jokhang Temple
As with Pokalde the views from the summit are spectacular, especially so because of the nearness of the massive south face of Nuptse. The views northwards towards Pumori and the Lho La are also outstanding.

PHOKALDE PEAK (5,806m/19,044ft.)

Area: Khumbu Himal - Everest Area

Rocky Phokalde Peaks seen from Pheriche. This mountain was first climbed in 1953 by a route from the Kongma La along its North-ridge. Despite its relatively low altitude the mountain's first successful climbers were giants of the mountaineering world, a fact that is true of many of the Trekking peaks.

Phokalde is an insignificant-looking mountain when seen from Periche, from where it appears as a rocky ridge dominated by the vast bulk of Nuptse. Seen from the Lobuje or Gorak Shep the peak looks more interesting rising to the south of the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), an infrequently traversed pass that leads into the Chhukhung Valley. The northern side of the mountain has a small hanging glacier that is best reached along the ridge rising from the Kongma La. By and large the rock on the mountain is poor, although it does offers some interesting scrambling on the well-defined ridges. The summit provides a good viewpoint and from that perspective is a fine little peak.

The 1300 year old Jokhang Temple
Khumbu Himal

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