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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL
 
HIUNCHULI (6,441m/21,126ft.)


Area: Annapurna Sanctuary in the Annapurna Himal.

Hiunchuli lies in the Annapurna range and it is connected to Annapurna South. Discovered by Col. Jimmy Roberts, it is one of the three major Hiunchuli - West Ridge trekking peaks within the "Annapurna Sancturary", to be named by Roberts. The mountains of this area are considered the sacred by the Gurungs who inhabit the region. The other two peaks within the sanctuary are Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) and Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak).

Hiunchuli was first summited by an American Peace Corps Expedition under the leadership of Craig Anderson in October 1971. Although it is easy to reach the mountain and the popularity of the Annapurna Sancutary with trekkers and climbers, the actual ascent of Hinuchuli is considered one of the most difficult among the trekking peaks.


Hiunchuli
South-East Face Route:
The route to base camp starts from Hinko Cave on the Annapurna Sanctuar trail. After establishing the first camp somewhere above the valley floor a further 2 camps are neccessary to make it to the top. Although not technically extreme this route is exposed to rockfall and serac dangers and is a complicated route-finding experience.

North-West Face Route:
The ascent by the North-West Face has been attempted only by a very few climbers and not always successfully. The exact route is not well known. The approach is from the Annapurna Base Camp in the Sanctuary and a further 2 camps may be necessary to complet this not so well known ascent.

SINGU CHULI (6,501m/21,323ft.)

Area: Annapurna Sanctuary in the Annapurna Himal.

Singu Chuli south face seen from the Annapurn Sanctuary. Singu Chuli formerly known as Fluted Peak is the highest amongst the "Trekking Peaks" of Nepal. Wilfred Noyce, the first man to summit this shapely mountain with David Cox compared its beauty with India's highest and probably the most beautiful peak, Nanda Devi. This peak is situated in the Annapurna Sanctuary adjoined to Tharpu Chuli and across Hiunchuli peaks. We arrive at the base camp of Singu Chuli in spectacular six days walk up the Modi Khola gorge to the Annapurna Sanctuary. Base camp at around 4350m/14668ft and then establish two higher camps, one at 4,900m/16,000ft at the approach of North East Face and a higher one at 5,500m/18,000ft. on the North East Face of the mountain before the summit is gained. A vertical wall near the summit pose some technical challenge on this climb. This climb is suggested to only those with some alpine and ice climbing experience.



MARDI HIMAL (5,587m/18,325ft)


Area: Machhapuchare massif in the Annapurna Himal.


Mardi Himal - South-West Face. Less than fifteen miles north of Pokhara, as the crow flies, this mountain is the most southerly of the Annapurna range. From some viewpoints it seems little more than an outlier on the south-west flank of Machhapuchhare. Mardi Himal is the lowest and perhaps least climbed or visited of the trekking peaks.

Once again it was Col. Jimmy Roberts who, with two Sherpas, climbed to the summit by a route on its East Flank in 1961. The normal route of ascent reaches a col from a glaciated amphitheatre that rises above a hidden plateau; the 'Other Sanctuary', as Roberts calls it. Although another route has been made on the south-West Face, Roberts' route is the only recorded line and the one used on most subsequent ascents.


Obviously, the peak has commanding view of the Annapurna ranges and undoubtedly a spectacular one of Machhapuchhare the "Himalayan Matterhorn," better known as Fish Tail Peak. Few westerners visit the valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal. They are steep sided and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron. Above the forest high alpine pastures provide good grazing and a habitat for undisturbed wildlife. Despite it lowly altitude the mountain obviously has a great deal of potential for those interested in small-scale exploratory mountaineering and the ridges, already mentioned, present obvious climbing challenges at a reasonable standard.

Moderate to difficult trekking from 2,805m (9,200ft) to 4,940m (16,200ft) with optional day hikes up to 5550m (18,200ft). Accommodation in comfortable lodges run by Sherpa families. The trek starts with a flight from Kathmandu and includes all meals, services of experienced English speaking Trek Guide and porter/s to carry luggage. Clients carry back pack only and walk at their own pace.

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